Seven Week Itch

(Try making a comment at the bottom; I changed a tiny setting and believe it works now.  It's LONELY out here.  We need to hear from you!!)

 
Seven weeks is pretty long for us to stay in one place these days.

We lived in Quebradas, San Isidro del General, for longer than anyplace so far.  And we may return there:  it's a NICE place to live with many heartfelt "Gringo" and "Tico" friends in the region. 

But we left.  
Largely because we couldn't find affordable properties that have the qualities we're looking for.

Toucans checking out the local edibles

 




"So we packed our bags with sweaters and socks and a frog who was a particular friend" and moved a 3 hour bus trip further away from civilization.  

Yes, it's a trifle remote.  Yes, there are far fewer gringos.  Yes, not having a car is a HUGE problem. Yes, the scenery is magnificent.  Yes, there are tons of incredible birds.

Morning vista

Strolling through our new home

Next to Panama

We're about 30 minutes outside of the little pueblo of San Vito consisting of some 12,000 people, still technically in Costa Rica but only 6 miles from Panama by way the toucan flies.  Convenient in some ways.  Visa border runs will be a cinch. The people are "mas pueblo": more small town, friendlier.

The elevation is at 3000 feet; temperature range is about 68-70 degrees at night, 80-85 degrees during the day and humid.  During this time of year it commonly rains in the afternoons, sometimes just a trifle, sometimes a lot.  And no wind. 

But this region caught our eye as having some distinct advantages we're looking for - so we rented a home on a hardwood tree ranch outside of town, a fairly pleasant home built on a hilltop by a French couple. 

Car path leading to the tree ranch on both sides.  No speeding.

Side view of our new home.  The front is glass doors.

Looking out from in

Patio over the valley

Let the birdwatching begin - plus a strong dose of spacing out

He was an artist and constructed marvelous riverstone walkways and sitting areas traversing the hillside.  When he passed away several years ago, she returned to France and now rents out two homes on the property and the resident caretakers, Portfidio and Eunice, live in the 3rd home.

 

River rock walkways.  Note the rock sofa.

 

Yep, the walkway works just fine!

Pink-banana flower - for pink bananas

Rock On, baby!! But bring a pillow.

A not-so-gentle slope.  See the upper and lower homes?

So far we've only been here a week.  The owner told stories of monkeys and turtles - though no real sightings yet. Although in early evening a flock of brilliant toucans landed in the enormous old tree in front of the house, munching on something in the tree. 

A pair of turqouise-crowned Motmots likes to hang out in the citrus trees right outside.  Parrots frequently fly overhead squawking, sometimes landing close by. I hope that some of this makes up for the drama of managing a trip to town and back.

Goin' DOWN to get to the lower home

Deck of the lower house

Long and winding driveway that leads to the lower home

Early morning peek

A possible relative to the poinsetta?

A bit of a slope.  Roof of lower house.

Growing all over the property

An exotic passionflower

 So once again we are home. This time home is quite a remote rural location, 30 minutes from town and 1 mile from the nearest bus stop, served by a grand total of 4 buses per day. All our neighbors are real country style Ticos, leading peaceful and traditional lives.

The property's caretakers, Portfidio and Eunice, make fine and helpful neighbors. Their dog Camila comes over to our home to guard us at night, where she sleeps right outside the door and is awakened frequently by huge flying beetles and bats.

This gentleman rescued me when I was headed the wrong way on a short cut to the bus stop. He led me down this trail, squeezing by several LARGE oxen and through a defunct sugar cane syrup mill where yolked oxen used to walk in circles to run the mill that crushed the cane.  The bus stop is to the right of the top of his hat.  I missed the bus and the next one wasn't for 4 hours.  Next time I'll forget the short cut and take the dirt road.

So once again we've landed.  This time in a forgotten corner of the globe, San Vito de Coto Brus, Costa Rica, still searching for a home and a way of life to call our own. 

Lawrence the Lounge Lizard

Cookie tin camouflage

Jeff had finished making some cookies and was washing up when he yelled, "A lizard just jumped on the soapy cookie sheet."  No kidding.

We love having little lizards (like geckos and anoles) live in the house because they eat the BUGS.









The 3 inch long lizard that jumped onto the cookie tin is the same one that lives behind the sofa, occasionally venturing out into the Greater Home.  We call him Lawrence the Lounge Lizard.  For real.

Sometimes when we're sitting on the sofa, he tentatively charges out from under the sofa in short bursts, across the floor, finally making it all the way to the bathroom.  Then he skirts along the floor of the bathroom and all the way up to the top of the wall. He likes to hunt for bugs on the window screen.  All true.

But tonight Lawrence took a different route for his adventure.  Tonight the little fella  managed to jump into the soaped up cookie tin, I presume from the kitchen wall.  What a fine mess he got himself into this time.  After we got done taking photos of the little guy, he voluntarily climbed onto my forearm and let me carry him back over to the sofa - where an appropriate Lounge Lizard belongs.

He jumped off and ran behind the couch where he continues to live happily to this day.

Resting a moment, getting ready for the final stretch.

First he ran out from the sofa. Then he charged across the floor. He made his way up to the window. Now the cockroach is no more. (Think: Itsy bitsy teeny weenie. He's our lizard; he ain't skinny.)

 More:

Variegated squirrel in search of a treat

A type of banana the animals LOVE.  People, not so much.

As the bananas ripen, they split open.

Top and bottom.  Talk about camouflage.

Better friend than foe

 

Ever heard of a suicide shower? Note the charred wall.

 

Open air gym above the river, country-style

At 7 pm daily a porcupine trots across this area.

Note the river in lower corner. No quick moves.

Looking down from the gym.  Home to a family of river otters.

Ana, Kevin and the boys.  The gym owners.

Mexican Dominoes, Fire Dances, and Picnics

Casual socializing has never been our forte - for either of us. 

But now that we are out here - all alone in a foreign culture - we are putting a higher value on simply spending time with friendly people whenever we can.

Whatever invitation may come our way, we eagerly say "Yes!"

When our landlord invited us to an evening of Mexican dominoes with some gringo friends, we accepted - but with our usual hesitation. (Like, do we really want to play dominoes?)  And although it took us most of 3 hours to figure out the rules, you know what? We had a heckalotta fun.

Then a few weeks later we were enthralled by her daughter's evening fire dance performance: Imagine listening to wild jungle drumming in the black of night on a riverfront platform. You ain't in Kansas anymore Butchie!

Recently our friends Peter and Wynn invited us to their 2nd annual 4th of July party at their remote riverside home in the hills about 45 minutes outside of San Isidro.

They invite a mix of locals and expats and this year they had about 60 attendees. Our plan was to bus part of the way and then walk the last 6 km up the dirt road to the village of San Francisco de Rivas, which has very infrequent bus service. 

We had just begun our walk up the road when Sam and her sister Sharon drove up behind us and motioned us into their cars.  We know them from the farmer's market and our walks around Quebradas. So with a little help from our friends, we arrived at the party.

Then midway through the festivities a tropical downpour pounded the tin roof, drowning out all conversation. So we gathered out on the protected patio to feel the torrential rain and watch the river multiply in size, thundering over the boulders. 

We stood together mesmerized, deafened, and baptized by the sheer power of water. The rockets red glare was far from our minds. 

What a wonderful new way to celebrate independence day with an intriguing group of highly inter-dependent people. 

Gathering at the big house with Carol.

Peter explains how he renovated an old Tico house and made it something special.

Peter and Wynn's backyard.

Peter describes the construction of the amazing rock seating area.

Anita, Peter, and Wynn. What a fun afternoon several days before the party.

Rio Chirripo is a raging beauty.

Outdoor living

House with no walls

Ready! Right 1 - 2 Left 1 - 2.  Dance lessons Tuesdays and Thursdays in a local restaurant.

This basilisk lizard was over 2 feet long, sunning by the river.

Ana is one fit lady and a helluva fitness coach at our riverfront, middle of the boondocks gym.

A 7 inch walking stick insect on the outside of the bathroom window.

Walk, walking stick, walk.

Orange fungus

Baby lizards sun themselves by the river.  This little guy is upwards of 15 inches long.  Sometimes we see 4 of them.

F15 bug ready for takeoff.  Is it a winged cricked?  Is it a wonky wasp?  Is it an accident of nature?  I don't know but it's in my living room and I want it out.