Saturday, February 23, 2013

From Tourist-ville to Paradise

The visit to La Fortuna at the foot of the Arenal Volcano included a barrage of tourists from all over the world swarming in and out of shops, restaurants, hotels and tour agencies . . .

And we felt a bit uncomfortable being part of the storm.  So we took out a map and planned our escape.  

Tilaran, a small pueblo at the west end of Lake Arenal and El Castillo at the east end stood out as possible destinations, but to make it happen we opted to rent a car for 3 days.  

Yeehaw!! We got to play like real tourists for a change.  So off we went in our gutless Hyundai to walk the jungle trail at Hanging Bridges, on the way to Tilaran.

While there, in the middle of a hilly jungle, at one point it sounded like a pack of angry Rottweilers was headed straight for us.  A nearby group of American hikers reassured us that it was a troop of Howler monkeys discussing the purpose of life with another troop.  Could've fooled me!!  Sorry, no pictures of the monkeys this time.  They were too fast and elusive for us.

We ended up hanging out with the Americans for the rest of the day and evening - and even part of the next day.  One of the men had just sold his tilapia farm near Tilaran and is returning to live in the U.S. to take care of personal business.  

The next day he graciously spent hours with us touring his property - and my goodness, what a dream property it is: over 8 acres consisting of 9 fish ponds, each flowing into the next, citrus trees, wild orchids, coconut palms, coffee bushes, various native fruit trees, pineapple plants, several homes and other buildings, and so on and so on - all beautifully maintained.

But we had to remind ourselves the property had already been sold - almost.  

Nevertheless, the day reminded us to keep our hearts open to possibilities.  Hope lives on.



Have the hot springs resorts around La Fortuna gone too far? Well, er... yes.

Starr is anticipating the best Mexican Tortilla avocado soup she has ever eaten. It's almost here.

Lost in the moment. The subtle beauty of the jungle captures your soul.


Another kind of light shade.

We thought these looked prehistoric. 

Forest primeval is still here. Only 3% remains of what was.

14 suspension bridges get you right into the canopy of a square mile of old growth jungle.

Here a bridge, there a bridge.
Everywhere a Jefe bridge.

Starr relates to the wild. And the wild relates back.

Clear cool water in the warm jungle. How does that work?

Plants love living in the jungle. 

Concrete grids help humans stay upright on slippery trails.

Every houseplant you've ever seen started out here.

This guy liked rock so much he built a discotheque out of it.

Learning from other Americans who blazed the trail before us. We are grateful

A beautifully functional tilapia pond system near Lake Arenal.

Roy shows us his place.

This is the Paradise picture you've been waiting for.

So much to learn.


A happy day for us.

Lake Arenal is a reservoir, generating over 40% of the country's electricity.

Cafe y Macadamia is awesome. Curry chicken with a Costa Rican touch.

This is the best cup of coffee we have ever had. We're from Seattle, so that's saying a lot. 

Macadamia shells form the surface of the dining patio.

Thursday, February 21, 2013

Wake Up!!


Starr had to run an errand today, so we woke up early and I saw her off on the 5:30am bus.

I found myself on a park bench before dawn in a tourist town at the foot of the Arenal Volcano, one of the world's most active volcanoes until several years ago when it seemed to calm down a bit. 

So I decided to watch the town of La Fortuna wake up and spend some time thinking about "waking up" in general.

La Fortuna is a young town, in age and spirit. It was founded in 1969 as a result of the explosion of Volcan Arenal in September 1968 that buried the town of Tabacon and displaced the entire population of survivors.

We're on the Caribbean side of the mountains now and it feels more humid, but still comfortable.

My thoughts in verse ...


Wake up! Conquer your worst fear.

Have some coffee or maybe a beer.

Be friendly and open to all harmless beings.

Pause to reflect, a great way of seeing.

Is it NOW yet? Well I think so!

The bouganvillea is beautiful, no?

Get over yourself, life's not that bleak.

Look inside, you'll find what you seek.

Ask for some help and it may arrive.

Stand up, stretch out and feel alive.

Your bus is leaving, be ready to go.

See the light, feel the flow.

Head up the road and into the clouds.

Go to high places away from the crowds.

A new day is yours! To have and to hold.

Get in your boat. Go ahead and be bold.

Your burdens are heavy. All of ours are.

Check your device, if you've got enough bars.


Meet someone new. by wagging your tail.

There's a light up above. It's high time to sail.

Jog with a friend, right through the town.

Let the past go, it might get you down.

Screw on your head. Let's boogie some more.

Raise up the curtain and write your own score.

Wake up!  Again, that's what life's for.

Checking out the Volcan Arenal area for the next few days and will let you know if it's worth the visit.

-Jeff