Saturday, July 20, 2013

Seven Week Itch


(Try making a comment at the bottom; I changed a tiny setting and believe it works now.  It's LONELY out here.  We need to hear from you!!)
 
Seven weeks is pretty long for us to stay in one place these days.

We lived in Quebradas, San Isidro del General, for longer than anyplace so far.  And we may return there:  it's a NICE place to live with many heartfelt "Gringo" and "Tico" friends in the region. 

But we left.  
Largely because we couldn't find affordable properties that have the qualities we're looking for.
Toucans checking out the local edibles


 




"So we packed our bags with sweaters and socks and a frog who was a particular friend" and moved a 3 hour bus trip further away from civilization.  

Yes, it's a trifle remote.  Yes, there are far fewer gringos.  Yes, not having a car is a HUGE problem. Yes, the scenery is magnificent.  Yes, there are tons of incredible birds.
Morning vista
Strolling through our new home

Next to Panama

We're about 30 minutes outside of the little pueblo of San Vito consisting of some 12,000 people, still technically in Costa Rica but only 6 miles from Panama by way the toucan flies.  Convenient in some ways.  Visa border runs will be a cinch. The people are "mas pueblo": more small town, friendlier.

The elevation is at 3000 feet; temperature range is about 68-70 degrees at night, 80-85 degrees during the day and humid.  During this time of year it commonly rains in the afternoons, sometimes just a trifle, sometimes a lot.  And no wind. 

But this region caught our eye as having some distinct advantages we're looking for - so we rented a home on a hardwood tree ranch outside of town, a fairly pleasant home built on a hilltop by a French couple. 
Car path leading to the tree ranch on both sides.  No speeding.


Side view of our new home.  The front is glass doors.


Looking out from in


Patio over the valley


Let the birdwatching begin - plus a strong dose of spacing out
He was an artist and constructed marvelous riverstone walkways and sitting areas traversing the hillside.  When he passed away several years ago, she returned to France and now rents out two homes on the property and the resident caretakers, Portfidio and Eunice, live in the 3rd home.

 
River rock walkways.  Note the rock sofa.
 
Yep, the walkway works just fine!
Pink-banana flower - for pink bananas

Rock On, baby!! But bring a pillow.

A not-so-gentle slope.  See the upper and lower homes?




So far we've only been here a week.  The owner told stories of monkeys and turtles - though no real sightings yet. Although in early evening a flock of brilliant toucans landed in the enormous old tree in front of the house, munching on something in the tree. 

A pair of turqouise-crowned Motmots likes to hang out in the citrus trees right outside.  Parrots frequently fly overhead squawking, sometimes landing close by. I hope that some of this makes up for the drama of managing a trip to town and back.

Goin' DOWN to get to the lower home
Deck of the lower house


Long and winding driveway that leads to the lower home


Early morning peek
A possible relative to the poinsetta?

A bit of a slope.  Roof of lower house.


Growing all over the property
An exotic passionflower

















 So once again we are home. This time home is quite a remote rural location, 30 minutes from town and 1 mile from the nearest bus stop, served by a grand total of 4 buses per day. All our neighbors are real country style Ticos, leading peaceful and traditional lives.

The property's caretakers, Portfidio and Eunice, make fine and helpful neighbors. Their dog Camila comes over to our home to guard us at night, where she sleeps right outside the door and is awakened frequently by huge flying beetles and bats.

This gentleman rescued me when I was headed the wrong way on a short cut to the bus stop. He led me down this trail, squeezing by several LARGE oxen and through a defunct sugar cane syrup mill where yolked oxen used to walk in circles to run the mill that crushed the cane.  The bus stop is to the right of the top of his hat.  I missed the bus and the next one wasn't for 4 hours.  Next time I'll forget the short cut and take the dirt road.

So once again we've landed.  This time in a forgotten corner of the globe, San Vito de Coto Brus, Costa Rica, still searching for a home and a way of life to call our own.